Léa Rinaldi screened her new film 'Esto es lo que Hay' at Silencio Paris for a small audience to enjoy. The film focuses on Los Aldeanos, an underground hip-hop group based in Havana, Cuba. Los Aldeanos is one of Cuba's most famous hip-hop group and they express their feelings against the government with creative and critical lyrics. The film has been shot over a period of six year from 2009-2015; it draws upon the time of the old Castro regime transition and paints a intimate and modern perspective of the new artistic and revolution of the island.
If you have been following Miguel Villalobos on facebook you've seen a lot of his quick drawings of people that he sees on the street in the metro, etc. but did you know he also makes amazing textile designs? Here are a few that he made for Zaldy NYC.
For the first time and on the occastion of Pitti Uomo #88, Fresh in Florence will host a curated selection of emerging talent across menswear, womenswear and accessories during a 3-day showcase, launched with an opening event. Though applications close at the end of today! Send any questions to email@example.com
Disney's Cinderella costume designer Sandy Powell joins Port Eliot Festival's line-up. The famous glass slipper and blue fairy tale ball gown will be displayed in the blue Drawing Room at Port Eliot for all festivalgoers to behold.
Gustavo Prado created a documentary about the history of fashion in Mexico, he dedicated this great effort to me, We will be happy to screen this film at the next edition of ASVOFF Dec 2 - 6 at Centre Pompidou in Paris.
Florence isn’t really known for ‘new’ creativity, despite having a large young artistic community and excellent design schools like Polimoda. At times it feels like everything began and ended with the Renaissance as far a design is concerned. However, a crew of young creatives are pulling their resources together to show that this isn’t the case.
For the first time, Fresh in Florence will host a selection of young contemporary brands in one of the coolest sites in Florence - the BJØRK space - during Pitti Uomo #88.
Handcrafted and designed in Stockholm, the jewelry brand MURKY present its Autumn Winter 2015 collection. Mike Årsjö and Emelica Lidman decided in 2013 to combine their talents and fascination with darkness, machinery and human form into MURKY, a minimal and sculptural jewelry brand. Each item is handmade of fine oxidized silver.
Speaking of slowear and mindful organic design, one more favourite at the OPB fair comes to mind from Brooklyn. Rather than presenting each season a whole new collection as most would, Tara St James of Study NY follows her own moral compass and patented Anti-[fashion]-Calendar, opting to focus instead on always upgrading the brand’s sustainable strategies to fine-tune a beautiful offer of timeless classics. While here in the UK for one, between 400,000 and 700,000 tonnes per annum of the total textile fibre produced is lost, Tara experiments with techniques such as responsible weaving, natural dying, or the zero waste pieces on display by her booth, born within one another like a soft set of Russian Dolls. Primarily produced in town, at the Garment District in Manhattan, her line also includes knitwear from Peru made of locally sourced alpaca, and collaborates with a group of artisans in Mexico City who employs women in prison, by teaching them how to cross-stitch. Study’s lookbook comes as a series of postcards – on the back side of each are printed aphorisms by noted green thinkers that prompt us to think about the consequences of our actions or acquire much more slowly. The one I like best though, comes unsurprisingly from Buckminster Fuller: "The best way to predict the future is to design it".
When Roman Polanski was asked if there was any film that he would not want to change a frame he said "If there was a can of film to be put on his grave it would be the Pianist. The film starred Adrien Brody and received the Palm d'Or in 2011.
One would expect no less from a Origin Passion And Beliefs fair, and sustainability was indeed a major theme this year in Vicenza, where The Next Black documentary, looking at alternative methods of production, sourcing, even washing our clothes to minimize their environmental impact, was also screened. Young designers, hindered though they would be by the small quantities of their collections, show exemplary reluctance to compromise: and side by side with the very peaks of innovation – take Chromat’s 3D printed laser ports implanted on a bra – there’s a topical wistfulness for the ways things were done once, that finds among the suppliers and manufacturers on site much fertile ground.
In particular, it was a book by Pierre Rabhi, a poet and farmer who invented the concept of Oasis en tous lieux, and moved from Algeria to France in the 70s to promote the science, movement and practice of agroecology, that inspired S M K’s second season, titled Retour à la Terre. Sandra Meynier Kang, who relocated in turn from Paris to Seoul, switched her previous Yes I’m French label for a more mature, more green and conscious project. A casual but refined refiguring of international famers’ attires, to be worn as memories in the city, informs her latest work – Sandra does not use any animal material, works with local factories and selects fabrics with minimal chemical composition, still a rarity in South Korea.
“C’est la nature avant tout qui doit nous inspirer car elle est la seule garante véritable de notre pérennité. Sans elle, aucun projet n’est assuré d’un lendemain.” – Pierre Rabhi
While the European Community (EC) is working on giving us the opportunity to purchase any product on any continental location (with same price conditions based on delivery dates and proper scheduled sales), fashion, shamelessly enough has no idea about it. The industry started rolling through a maelstrom years ago brought on by economical fear without post-evaluating it. All of its facets, from a low to high price range got intrinsically mixed and never found it’s way out of the whirlpool. Are we stuck in the system? Yes, we definitely are - what a mess.
If when you think of bespoke footwear in London you picture a highbrow set of monk strap or wingtips, paired with striped socks and knee buckles as did Brummell and his peers, it’s time perhaps to update your standards. Based far east from the Savile Row clique, in the neighbourhood of Hackney, James Kearns sews his sneakers entirely by hand, having learned his craft from YouTube, the classical way. One of a kind unisex styles, with artfully rusted eyelets, nail marks, matching strings and purposely sourced imperfect leathers, each shoe takes an average of 30-32 hours to complete. Most of his materials come from Italy – James mentions in particular a 1896 tannery in Ischia –, which may be a reason why he’s back at Origin for the second year in a row. Of the models on display, he shows me one inspired by a snowboard boot, and a slip-on made out of a wolffish. Working on site at his booth in Vicenza, at the end of each day James collects the offcuts and scraps from the floor to make jewellery and buttons, soon to be casted in silver or bronze.
Michel Franco was on the jury for ASVOFF in Mexico City and we had a chance to talk about the film that he had just finished shooting, Chronic. In 2012 his film After Lucia won the prize in the category Un Certain Regard. This year his film is up for the Palme d'or. The link below is to his press conference today at Cannes and the little fly on the wall video is from last November in Mexico City.
Marit Ilison’s work I had seen once before, in February 2014 when Estonia won the International Fashion Showcase award hosted in London by the British Fashion Council. I was thrilled then, to have the chance to speak with her here in Vicenza. Marit, who’s now also an art director at the Estonian avant-garde Theatre NO99, operates in the field of perceptional experience design. Her Longing for Sleep collection is named after the Estonian title for Chekhov’s short story Let Me Sleep, and dozes in the wintery months of kaamos, a word for when the days are very short and there’s barely any light outside. A concept instantly relatable wherever one comes from, the Soviet woollen blankets Marit turns into soft outerwear are infused with warm nostalgia, and lined with embroidered beads and crystals – like shiny dreams, but also the sandy grains of guilt that grate on our sleeping in, when there’s ever so much work to do.
Hard pressed as I have been to take my pick out of 100 worthy options at the Origin fair, here’s a couple I had the chance to have a quick chat with, whom I was looking forward to introduce to you. Orli Tesler and Itamar Mendelovitch are a textile design duo from Tel Aviv, where they have perfected their handling of wearable woods, and brought to Vicenza a willowy and lustrous collection of pochettes, in the shades of walnut, ebony, rosewood. Carpenters of the modern world, their bags are slow-cooking projects, as they call them, and each can take up to two months to make – though their prices are not as steep as this would suggest. As many at the fair, theirs is a work of love, and comes out of respect for nature: Orli tells me that there’s very little waste and they hardly use any electricity. She says, “basically this bag could have been made 100 years ago”. It was about time then, that someone did.